CHANDI CHOWK RICKSHAW
Old Delhi, India
India’s largest and best-known mosque, Jama Masjid, is nestled in the heart of Old Delhi and surrounded on every side by busy market areas. Each of its three large gates rise from a congested lively street by 30 plus steps and give an amazing vantage point for cityscape views.
There is a constant fascinating chaotic movement and rhythm that is uniquely Delhi. At the base of the Western Gate steps sits the iconic Chandri Chowk Market District where bicycle powered rickshaws can be hired. And this is where our ride began…
The area is especially congested so the process of engaging a rickshaw driver to negotiate a price can be an adventure all its own. Add to that traveling with a group and the logjam becomes significant, so our guide skillfully facilitated the process and assigned a rickshaw to us leaving our pint size driver/victim (maybe 140 lbs. soaking wet) the luck of the draw to get 6’5” Dave & big girl Natalie who struggled to squeeze into a seat designed for 2 average sized Indian riders.
Given that another rickshaw passenger in our group was a single female rider, I’d say our unfortunate captain drew the “Old Maid card” for the afternoon!
He didn’t necessarily give us the “look”, but try as I might to soften the blow by a little humor, some self deprecating apologies, but, alas, in the end, never did get a smile. Can’t say I blame the guy…He was a trooper, never really broke a sweat and proved size doesn’t really matter. He could really move that 3 wheeled buggy!
We were off, and, not a leisurely stroll by any means, like a bat out a hell, like a race to the finish…everyone, everything rushing by. It was a crazed chaotic rickshaw ride through a maze of narrow side streets and alleyways filled with tiny shops selling spices, fresh fruit, saris (those gorgeous Indian scarf dresses) and traditional Indian fare. We shared the space with motorcycles, bikes, rickshaws, carts and pedestrians. It was Delhi traffic in microcosm… more of the nuckin’ futs, just in closer quarters, and often pretty much on top of someone.
Overhead long tangled spaghetti strands of wires ran every which way and each narrow alleyway held delightful smells and colorful surprises.
Men carrying packages on their shoulders and heads as well as bicycles loaded with wide boxes wove in and out of our rickshaw’s path whose pace never slowed. Holy krap!
We whizzed past countless people and shops…fruit stands on the ground, on tables, trays of beautiful foods carried, bought, being prepared, silver jewelry, spices here – spices there – spices everywhere, rainbows of saris and fabrics.
Then suddenly we would emerge into the sunlight, out of an alleyway to a busy street with tuk-tuks and cars, buses and pedestrians, horns honking, shocking you into instant visions of death by bus then just as suddenly dive back to another passageway with more small shops and a different maze of backstreets with new streaks of bright colors and aromas to try to catch before they blurred by.
It was sensory overload. Your eyes and brain can’t digest in real time what it sees. I was snapping pictures right and left… only later, when looking back through the footage the treasures unfolded and the details became visible. Wow, what a captivating place! Thanks Old Delhi Chandi Chowk…that was a crazy ride!!
And, to all our fast pedaling rickshaw rocking friends who make such WILD RIDES possible… May you rest well with your calves of iron & dream of PETITE SINGLE RIDERS!
TRIPPIN WITH NATALIE 